Thursday, July 18, 2013

The Clutch and Crankcase

My clutch would slip 1 out of 30 times.  So it wasn't a real issue but I figured I should examine it anyway.  The clutch plates and all mechanisms seemed to be in proper order. No uneven wear spots or discoloring.  The oil filter was seriously dirty. There's no screen mesh or anything just a little bucket that spins the debris onto the sides.  No dirt just tons of metal shavings from the cam chain grinding into the cylinder. So I thoroughly cleaned that out.  To split the crankcase, I flipped the engine over and balanced it using two tool boxes. This keeps everything in the case when you split it open. I found some more metal shavings that had settled in the bottom of the case. Besides that I didn't mess with anything else.  The biggest thing to note is to make sure the kickstarter is in it's groove. Also, If you move the main crank at all, make sure the main crank is lined up with each tick mark,  and it's locked into place.  There's one tick on each of the 4 things(?)  that hold the main crank in place. You can independently spin each one until they fall into place.













4 comments:

  1. How tight do you have to tighten the four bolts that hold down the springs?

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  2. Sorry for the delay. I responded a week ago, but I don't see it now. Google blogger glitch, I guess. Anyway, If I remember correctly. You tighten the bolts all the way down. Until the plate is fairly tight (snug) against the bolt holes they are screwing into. (shown in pic1 and 2). Are you having trouble tightening them?

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    Replies
    1. Thanks for the reply. I've been having clutch issues and I couldn't find a definite answer about those bolts. I've never actually tightened them until the plate touched the holes so I think I'll make that adjustment today!

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  3. You shouldn't have to tighten them much. They should tighten down fairly easily.
    What are your clutch issues? What kind of oil are you using?

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